This trip was mostly about the total solar eclipse happening in the U.S. on April 8th. Someone I knew in Kansas City retired back to her childhood home in southwestern Indiana. THat house is just five miles east of the center line of the eclipse. Just had to hope for a clear sky for viewing the eclipse that started there around 3:00 pm EDT.
Everything else about this trip was just places on my To-Maybe-Visit-Someday. Which of the two dozen or so places made the list changed several times before settling on the route actually taken. These places included some national parks, one college campus, and, many family history places where ancestors lived and were buried.
MISSOURI: It rained the entire trip from Kansas City yo here. Went to Pike County first and expecting to go to Lincoln second. Hoping to find when/where/how great great grandmother Riggs met and married Thomas Melvin. The Riggs started out in Lincoln county and in the late 1840's went to Pike County. I was incredibly fortunate to even find a marriage record for Thomas and Eliza since I really had no idea when/where they were married. Finding the marriage record in Pike meant I could skip Lincoln county researchj.
ILLINOIS: Illinois have several counties where ancestors lived in the 19th century: Washington, Perry, Randolph, Williamson, Johnson, Vermilion, Will and Pecatonica. Only that last one was not planned for a visit with this trip. Results and findings per county:
- St. John's Church in Washington county is pretty much in ruins and likely will soon be torn down. The adjacent cemetery is in good shape but many of the older headstones are either unreadable or are written in German. Married and/or buried here were the families of Buhr, Oltjendiers, Janssen and Sanders.
- Tried to get to the Wild Hyena Cemetery (close to St. John's) that is presumably at the end of Dove Road off highway 15. However, the gravel and dirt road dipped into the Elkhorn Creek which had flooded the road, making it impassable either in the car or on foot. Unknown whether the cemetery is actually there and has readable headstones. The only ancestor reported to be buried here is Lucinda Spencer, wife of Hawkins Ragland.
- Found a marriage record in Nashville (seat for Washington county) for William Buhr-Martha Ragland In Washington county. A nice find!
- In the Perry county Tamaroa Cemetery southeast of Nashville I found the headstones for the two Hawkins Ragland. This one is not the ancestor but his information is sometimes confused with the ancestor who is buried in Bethel Cemetery.
- The county offices in Pinckneyville, the county seat of Perry county, was a fruitless sortie.
- In the Bethel Cemetery about twelve miles west of Pin ckneyville I found the headstone for the ancestor Hawkins Ragland. His wife Lucinda is not buried there, she is reportedly buried in the Wild Hyena Cemetery in Washington county.
- Randolph county only had one ancestor there -- Samuel Clendenin -- and prior to this trip I found some land purchases he made during the 1855-1865 time he lived in this county.
- Williamson county had the will of Thomas Clendenin. His wife, Rachel Woody, reportedly had written her will in the same year as her husband Thomas but the county office reported they were unable to find her will.
- Johnson county had the marriage record of William H. Deaton and Elizabeth Clendenin. They reported they did not have the birth record of the son of William and Elizabeth which was suspected but had to check it out since Johnson county was one of three places their first son, ancestor Robert, was born.
- Fort Defiance State Park in Cairo has a great view of where the Ohio River meets the Mississippi River. The water surface area there at that point is many, many acres. I had seen it decades ago while crossing the bridge over that point and had long wanted to return to get a photograph of that point.
- After going to several other states, then returning to northeastern Illinois, I visited for the fourth time Vermilion county and its county seat of Danville. This time I was looking for information based on new clues gained in the past year.
- Three national park sites ended my touring of Illinois for this trip. Two are in the Chicago metro area -- Pullman and Portage -- and the third is the Illinois-Michigan Canal at LaSalle, Illinois.
TENNESSEE: Tennessee to mostly visit some cemeteries in the western half of the state where ancestors are buried. Skipped Memphis research this time. The Deaton Cemetery I was able to walk to across some unplanted farmland to photograph the four headstones there. I easily got to the Bailey Cemetery near Mount Joy and passed twice to all of the about 250 headstones but many of the older ones were worn unreadable. About a dozen main families are in this cemetery, none being ancestral family names. The Woody Cemetery near Santa Fe is on private property -- the owners were not at home -- so all I could do was use my camera zoom lense to get a photo of three headstones viewable from the road. I did unexpectedly find another national park sign for the Natchez Trace Parkway entry near Santa Fe.
LOUISIANA: New Orleans had two places missed in prior visits - campus signs for the University of New Orleans and the Jean Laffite National Park. Going here from the other destinations of this trip caused me to add 800 miles and ten hours of driving (plus stopping at two places to visit there). I would have liked to visit my three first cousins living in the New Orleans area but I had no idea which day, and what time of day, I would be there. I was actually two days ahead of my original expected date of arrival.
MISSISSIPPI: Mississippi had two national park sites in Tupelo to visit -- the Natchez Trace Parkway entry sign and the Tupelo National Battlefield Monument (no visitor center!). Early afternoon traffic was unbelievable for such a small town.
ALABAMA: Alabama was just a pass-thru state on this trip, and then it was just along the northwest boundary with Mississippi. Only place really left in Alabama is a repeat of the Russell Cave national park that was unexpectedly closed when I arrive there a few years ago.
KENTUCKY: Kentucky was just a pass-thru state for this trip although I have recently discovered several families moved to either Illinois or Missouri from Kentucky so someday I might need to do some further research in several counties in the state.
INDIANA: Indiana served two purposes for this trip -- a "base" hotel to be at the night before the total solar eclipse on Monday April 8th, and, two, to see (provided the clouds cooperated) the eclipse from the yard of my friend Cathy. She retired from her KC job and moved back into the house where she grew up in and her parents left it to her and her brother (and she bought out his half since he lives in Washington state). The center line of the 115-mile wide total eclipse was five miles from her home. So the plan was to watch from there. Plus, she is an expert photographer so I could get tips for photographing the eclipse!
O H M Y !!! The eclipse experience lived up to everything I have ever read about them. And, I was very fortunate in that southwestern Indiana was one of very few U.S. places up to that point (from Mexico and Texas) to have a mostly clear sky to view it. Cathy and I practiced some before it started then sat and waiting for it to start (the moon came in from the "four o'clock" position and moved towards the "ten o'clock" position). Then as soon as the total eclipse finished, we stopped watching and downloaded our numerous photos. I took just over 150 photos and most were pretty good (a few fuzzy one when I started rapidly clicking). And, we took time to just look up through our solar glasses to see the eclipse "live' instead of through a camera. Truly, truly amazing!!! Now I know why they say that once a person has seen a total eclipse, they will remember it for the rest of their life!
Oh, as for the rest of Indiana, I went to the library in Terra Haute and was able to find three articles/notations in the newspaper about the marriage of my great grandparents Wilson. They gave the address of the parents of the bride (since that is where the wedding ceremony took place) and I was able to find the great great great grandparents (Melvins) in both the 1884 and 1885 city directories at that address. Quite a nice discovery.
MISSED VISITING:
--Wild Hyena Cemetery -- creek flooded the only road to it, and a dirt and gravel road at that!
--Woody Cemetery -- it is on private property and the owners were not at home
--Lincoln County Missouri -- because of the find of the marriage certificate in the northerly neighboring county of Pike, no big reasons to do family research here.
--Grant's Farm National Park site in south St. Louis -- it is closed for a while
--Iowa counties of Plymouth and Woodbury. I realized that, instead of taking the 330-mile detour to these counties, that I will pass right through them on the first leg of the trip next year to Fairbanks, Alaska.
--Danville, Illinois courthouse (I will call or write them after I return home) and the nearby Locket Cemetery (it is on private property and it looked like no one was home) where only ancestor William Metier is supposed to be buried.
OBSERVATIONS: Some observations made while traveling in this area:
- Noticed many farms in central and northeastern Missouri are covered with very short purple flowery plants. Maybe they add nutrients to the soil. Same could be said for part of Illinois just across the Mississippi River.
- Although all of the early spring blossoming trees have shown their colors, flowers and bushes and regular deciduous tree leaves are still "sleeping"
- Based on my many trips all over the lower forty eight states since COVID, it seems that the amount of traffic at any time of the day, even in smallish towns (i.e. 20,000 to 50,000) has grown tremendously. The traffic volume is probably three or four times pre-COVID. It is as if people have quit going to some workplace and work during the daytime hours and instead they are out and about everywhere driving or shopping or eating out (although restaurants seem less crowded than pre-COVID),.
- Although spring came about three weeks earlier this year than normal, it still has many colorful trees in a variety of colors. Some flowers are blooming but they have yet to make their full spring appearance.
- Traveling has become popular again as many people were everywhere, especially because of the big Eclipse event
The Bests:
- Spring-colorful trees
- Passing through my main hometown of Jackson, Tennessee. It has grown so,*/ so much since we moved from there in 1971. But I still recognized some of the streets although most businesses along them have changed.
- Several important family history discoveries, especially for the Melvin family
- Construction was less than I expected to encounter, only a handful of places that caused a delay of more than five minutes.
The Worsts:
- Baymont Hotel in Washington, Illinois -- I gave feedback about it in my online reservation and said that it is THE ABSOLUTE WORST hotel experience I have ever had. It was because I was given a room in a full hotel (the next day was the solar eclipse) with my window looking into the incredibly noisy and bright (ceiling lights) swimming pool with its door to the lobby that slammed shut then bounced two more times, each time pounding my wall and floor.
The Totals:
- Miles Driven: 2838
- Driving: 48 hours in 10 days
- States: 8 -- Missouri, Illinois, Tennessee, Mississippi, Louisiana, Alabama, Kentucky, Indiana
- Major Universities: 1 -- University of New Orleans, making 535 of 538 campuses photographed -- only three left on the TO-PHOTO list, two in northeastern Massachusetts and one in Fairbanks, Alaska
- Pictures Taken: 357 (and deleted 60 of them, mostly from the 160 taken of the eclipse)
- National Parks: 5 new ones (total 336 of 424 visited of which around 365 will be visited): Jean Lafitte NP, Tupelo Battlefield NP, Pullman NP, Portage NP, Illinois-Michigan Canal NP
Just to list this as of April 2024:
Remaining to Visit by State/Province
- AL - DONE, but would like to revisit Russell Cave in the northeastern corner that was missed in Sept. 2022 trip
- AK - DONE, but might drive to Fairbanks in 2025 (a college there too) plus need to spend a night at a third hotel in the state
- AZ - DONE
- AR - DONE, but could visit the Buffalo National River NP southeast of Harrison as well as two counties -- Pike and Clark -- for family history
- CA - DONE, but three parks in the San Francisco area were closed in June 2023, and, in L.A. would like to visit JPL and Mt.Wilson
- CO - DONE
- CT - Family history research (Barker) in Windham county, maybe visit to Quinebaug & Shetucket Rivers Valley National Heritage Corridor, AND, need to spend a night at a third hotel in the state
- DC - Smithsonian is worth a future visit along with some of the memorials on/near the Capitol Mall: LBJ, FDR, MLK, WWII, Sewall-Belmont House, revisit Greenbelt
- DE - DONE, but might have ancestors there (via the Riggs line)
- FL - DONE, but maybe will visit Orlando area where a high school classmate and a cousin both live, still want to take the ferry at Fort Matanzas, and, re-attempt to visit a couple of places on the Gulf Coast: Sarasota (downtown), Pine Island and the Naples Botanical Gardens
- GA - DONE
- HI - DONE
- ID - DONE, but would like to drive from Boise to Moscow to cover that part of the state to yet drive through
- IL - DONE, but Chicago has some tourist-type places yet to visit
- IN - DONE, maybe Searls family history visit to Brown county (south of Indianapolis) and even Fountain county (just west of Danville Illinois)
- IA - Searls family history research in the counties of Plymouth and Woodbury, would go through here on the way to Fairbanks, Alaska in 2025
- KS - DONE, but currently live here
- KY - DONE, but maybe because, with recent family history discoveries of ancestral families in Missouri and Illinois that came from Kentucky
- LA - DONE, but have some cousins in New Orleans
- ME - Fall 2024 revisit Acadia National Park to photograph the park sign and just see the park again (was there in 1986), also visit the area around Eastport-Lubec and nearby International Park as well as the St. Croix Islands NP
- MD - DONE
- MA - Visit Blackstone River Valley NP, visit Martha's Vineyard. Also, do family history research plus I know many fellow Toastmasters in Boston. And, a good friend lives in this state.
- MI - DONE, but would like to determine what (and where) scenic things can be seen in Pictured Rocks National Park and maybe someday ferry to Isle Royale National Park
- MN - DONE
- MS - DONE
- MO - DONE, but I live too close to KCMO to avoid it
- MT - June 2024 to visit two new parks -- Grant-Kohrs and Bighorn Canyon plus maybe try a fourth attempt someday to Glacier National Park to drive the Going-to-the-Sun Road and even a third attempt at Big Hole NP. MT does have gorgeous scenery.
- NE - DONE
- NV - DONE
- NH - DONE
- NJ - Visit Morristown NP, Gateway, Great Egg Harbor -- planned for Sep.2024, plus, need to spend a night at a third hotel in the state
- NM - DONE, but I loved the town of Albuquerque and the surrounding area when I spent four days there in 2004
- NY - Many many places yet to revisit (from the 2015 trip) in this state. Also, Manhattan Island as: Federal Hall, Castle Clinton, African Burial Groung, Governor's Island and Statue of Liberty (will likely fly into NYC in 2024 or 2025)
- NC - DONE
- ND - Visit the International Peace Garden. Would like to drive from Bowman to Rapid City, South Dakota to cover a part of those states I have yet to drive through, plus, need to spend a night at a third hotel in the state
- OH - Visit the David Berger NP (planned for Sep.2024), do family research in several towns. Also, one cousin in Columbus.
- OK - DONE
- OR - DONE, and N E V E R want to be in this state again (despite two national parks there I have never visited)
- PA - Likely some hopeful family history discoveries brings me back here to check out something
- RI - DONE, but need to spend a night at a third hotel in the state
- SC - DONE, but have recently discovered one ancestor who lived a few years in this state
- SD - DONE, but would like to drive from Rapid City to Bowman North Dakota to cover a part of those states I have yet to drive through
- TN - DOne, but maybe more family history research in Memphis plus there are several other counties (i.e. Grundy) where ancestors lived before moving to Shelby county, PLUS, would be nice to find the Woody Cemetery property owners at home
- TX - Brother lives in this state as does a friend, also, would like to drive from Amarillo through Lubbock and on to San Angelo to cover a big chunck on the state I have yet to drive through
- UT - DONE though some good friends live in Salt Lake City area
- VT - Want to drive entirely around Lake Champlain, also, maybe some family history research in Windham county along with some other counties where ancestors lived
- VA - Would like to research the Melvin ancestry in Clarke county (his obituary says he was "of here"). Also, several cousins live in this state
- WA - DONE, but a good friend lives in Seattle and there are some yet-to-visit national parks in the north central part of the state: Lake Chelan, Lake Roosevelt, Ross Lake
- WV - Need to research in Jefferson county since it is the most likely place where the parents of Thomas Melvin lived in the early 1800's.
- WI - DONE, but would like to maybe re-attempt (it was pouring rain years ago when there) to visit the House of the Rocks and Taliesman near the town of Spring Green
- WY - Bighorn Canyon NP in the north central part of the state (JUne 2024 trip)
- AB - REALLY, REALLY, REALLY wanted to see in 2023 Lake Louise and Lake Moraine but logistics simply did not work out despite actually driving into the parking lot there. Also the town of Edmonton would be passed through if drive someday to Fairbanks, Alaska.
- BC - Love Vancouver and Butchart Gardens plus much more north along the coast to see on Vancouver Island all the way to Port Hardy
- LB - Newfoundland/Labrador is worth one visit someday but it is a big undertaking since it takes a day each way just to ferry from Nova Scotia
- MB - DONE, although it would have been nice to get a sunrise or sunset photo over either Lake Manitoba or Lake Winnepeg
- NB - New Brunswick was gorgeous with the fall colors and I liked the three highways I drove going across the province but I never really stopped to see anything. Want to see Saint Johns and along the coast northeast of it, also the Kouchibouguac national park
- NS - Missed much here and would like to return someday, two national parks to visit: Cape Breton and Kejimkujik (dark skies)
- NW - The Northwest Territory town of Yellowknife might be worth a visit if I someday drive to Fairbanks, Alaska
- ON - DONE, since visited Toronto, Ottawa and Thunder Bay
- PE - DONE, since Prince Edward Island was unimpressive, so likely done here although I did entirely miss the western half of the province
- QC - DONE, since visited Montreal and Quebec city and some towns south of them, plus, drove the entire coastline so unknown if will return here -- do not like feeling ostricized with the French language everywhere
- SK - Wanuskewin in Saskatoon in Saskatchwean might be worth one visit someday, would pass through here if drive to Fairbanks, Alaska someday
- YK - Yukon town of Whitehorse might be worth a visit if I someday drive to Fairbanks, Alaska. Plus, from that town, can drive into Skagway, Alaska to see the Klondike National Park site there