Over the past 44 years I had been several times to New York City for both Manhattan Island and Long Island. However, each time I only drove into and out of there in the same day.
it always was carefully planned and timed to avoid the infamous New York City traffic (even then I got caught in several traffic jams anyway). Thus, I never
spent much time exploring and enjoying one of the most famous cities in the world.
This time, I planned to spend a few nights on Manhattan island to give me time to tour it. However, I did not want to bother with a car so I flew into LaGuardia,
used a shuttle service to get between the airport and my hotel (which had a kitchen in it and groceries available nearby). All the places I wanted to visit
were within a two mile radius of the hotel. I was set for the adventure. At least, I thought I was prepared. However, two weeks before my arrival there, the
campus protests began -- and I had planned to go to both Columbia UNiversity and New York University to try to find better campus signs than what I had found in the past.
NEW YORK: Finally got in a visit into the heart of Manhattan Island. Several more (in additional to ones visited in the past) national park sites to see here: Clinton Castle,
African Burial Grounds, Statue of Liberty (seen from The Battery area at the south end of Manhattan Island), Governor's Island (also see from The Battery area), Federal Hall, and, the
new Stonewall which was slated to open soon after I left Manhattan. I also wanted to see many of the "famous" buildings and sites such as Empire State, Chrysler, Flatiron, Carnegie Hall,
Brooklyn Bridge, World Trade Center, Madison Square Garden, Grand Central Terminal, Times Square, United Nations, Rockefeller Center, Waldorf Astoria, New York PUblic Library, and, the
famous museums around Central Park. And, if time available, I wanted the chance to actually go inside the previously-photographed-from-the-outside national park site of Theodore Roosevelt's
Birthplace.
MISSED VISITING:
--Some ancestors were born and raised on Long Island and just east of White Plains to the north of Manhattan Island. But without having a car to drive there, those places were too far away in the short time I had in town. It would be good to visit the New York Historical Society whose offices I passed by while walking along the edge of Central Park (77th St and Central Park West).
--Chrysler Building -- no signs to identify the building at the point where the map said it should be
--Federal Hall -- it was closed and under rennovation. As I arrived, a park ranger was locking the main entrance and a lady was standing there asking the ranger about touring the Federal Hall.
--This trip did not allow enough time to visit the numerous famous museums of New York City. Many are on the eastern edge, or just south of, Central Park. Some are on the west side of the park. It would take two or three full days to tour the half doxen most major museums here.
OBSERVATIONS: Some observations made while traveling in this area:
- Most north-south streets on Manhattan Island have a 4-5 "green" lane that is just for bicycles and scooters. They are well used because of the constant traffic jams. The riders seem to believe they have top proprity for them moving and everyone else should stop for them. Even pedistrians have to watch out for these riders.
- Numerous places have rent-a-bike. I saw many people taking one out or parking it upon returning.
- Workers are out early collecting trash. THe job of many are to collect the bags and pile them all at a designated pick-up area. Recycling too.
- Workers are out early, and continue all day, with brooms and mops cleaning the sidewalks and streets.
- Dogs are everywhere as maybe 20% of the thousands on the widewalks are walking dogs. Some of them must be walking the dogs of others because they will have two to four dogs on leashes. And, they come prepared to clean up after the dogs.
- It takes a while to "learn" how to ride the NYC Metro subways. I saw several young men who simply leap over the turnstile to get in for free. For subway "newbies" it would be nice to have the stations better marked for their name that is clearly visible from inside the subway car. And, it would be nice to have more maps showing where the subways will go towards, and stop at. I twice got off at the wrong place (and able to quickly jump back on once).
- Every street corner should have (A) the names of all streets, even for one-way streets, and, (B) sign(s) that point the compass directions, at least two of them -- say, north and east signs,
- Walkers are unable to go more than two blocks before encountering a sidewalk that is either fully closed or partially closed (which leaves a five-foot wide space for the multitude of walkers. That is frustrating for those who want to "pass" the slower walkers.
- Walkers do not go by the same "rules" as vehicle drivers -- stay on the right side. Instead, they walk anywhere -- left, right, middle. Often they have their eyes buried in their phone and thus not watching who the are about to run into.
- It seems there are no ground-level railroad freight tracks on Manhattan Island, at least none south of Central Park.
- Several buskers and numeroud beggars are all around Manhattan Island, An occasional person will give the beggars something -- bottle of water, a protein bar, a dollar.
- Street vendors are everywhere, and, they seem to do a pretty good business. Several have a waiting line so presumably they are the ones known for having good food.
- Just like in Boston, the New York City drivers like to honk their horns in non-moving traffic. Apparently it makes them feel like they are doing something since obviously honking will not un-jam a jam or change to traffic light to green or get the pedistrians and bikers to move faster or out of the way. The honking goes from about 5:00 am to midnight.
- Protestors and demonstrators seem to be a big thing in NYC Maybe because NYC is a Big Stage".
- Blocking a lane of traffic to load or unload vehicle is common practice all day long everywhere in town. Sometimes, this blocks the only lane of the street so everyone idles for several minutes.
- One "local" said, affter I mentioned how the fog prevented me from seeing the Statue of Liberty, is fog often blankets NYC in the morning which lifts by early afternoon. That indeed was the case on Thursday.
- Pigeons are everywhere, seem to ignore people, and often fly right past a person
- Numerous people are often seen jogging on the sidewalks, especially before 8:00 am when the sidewalks are much less crowded
- Stunning how many people stand in a line at least a half-mile long to take the ferry to Staten Island. At least two thousand people were in the line.
- New York Yankees ballcaps are worn by many, many people hear. Only occasionally saw any hat or shirt for the Mets or the local NFL teams and NBA teams.
- New York City reminds me, in many ways, of Boston in that they look alike in several ways, Both are old cities that started in the 1620's.
- Bottom Line: I feel like I got to see, and know, Manhattan Island pretty well in just three days. It made me feeling like a football running back because of constantly dodging people and looking for "holes" to go through the crowds going my way and coming from the other way. And, maybe most important: it sure pays to have good comfortable shoes for walking so many miles (figure I did 16 miles) on concrete.
The Bests:
- Seeing many of the "famous" places I have often heard about over the years -- Rockefeller Center, Times Square, EMpire State Building (bu sans King Kong),
- Theodore Roosevelt Birthplace National Site -- a few years ago I only had time to quickly take a picture of the exterior park sign. This trip allowed me to take the guided tour. I had fun conversing with the elderly ranger tour guide as we swapped history stories.
- Central Park is spectacular although I was surprised how wooded (trees) it is and how many huge rock formations are underneath it and often appear about ground level
- Times Square area is something one would expect to see only in Hollywood. It is other-worldly!
- So fun ti get to chat with people from other states and other countries. New York CIty is a major draw fourists.
The Worsts:
- NYC traffic on the streets and the sidewalks (before 7:00 am is uncrowded)
- The construction in at least half of the city square block that obstruct views plus funnel the countless walkers.
- Despite the weather forecast, foggy morning prevented me from seeing the Statue of Liberty and Governors Island from The Battery Park. The next day was cloudy but I went back and was able to see the statue from a distance over the construction fence that is currently blocking most of the entire south end of Manhattan Island
- It is unfortunate how much of an on-ground presence the New York Police department officers must be in practically every block. Crowds and Crazies Control.
The Totals:
- Miles Walked: 16 (and 18 miles on the subways) -- comfortable walking shoes is a MUST here
- Driving: 0 hours in 4 days
- States: 1 -- New York (although New Jersey was visible across the river)
- Major Universities: 2, both repeat universities: Columbia and New York
- Pictures Taken: 176 (and deleted 14 of them)
- National Parks: 5 new ones (to make 340 visited of possible 424): Clinton Castle, African Burial Grounds, Stonewall (not yet open), Federal Hall (closed for rennovation) and Status of Liberty (see from The Battery Park and from the air). One repeat with Theodore Roosevelt Birthplace. Missed Governor's Island.
Just to list this as of May 2024:
Remaining to Visit by State
- AL - DONE, but would like to revisit Russell Cave in the northeastern corner that was missed in Sept. 2022 trip
- AK - DONE, but might drive to Fairbanks in 2025 (a college there too) plus need to spend a night at a third hotel in the state
- AZ - DONE
- AR - DONE, but could visit the Buffalo National River NP southeast of Harrison as well as two counties -- Pike and Clark -- for family history
- CA - DONE, but three parks in the San Francisco area were closed in June 2023, and, in L.A. would like to visit JPL and Mt.Wilson
- CO - DONE
- CT - Family history research (Barker) in Windham county, maybe visit to Quinebaug & Shetucket Rivers Valley National Heritage Corridor, AND, need to spend a night at a third hotel in the state
- DC - Smithsonian is worth a future visit along with some of the memorials on/near the Capitol Mall: LBJ, FDR, MLK, WWII, Sewall-Belmont House, revisit Greenbelt
- DE - DONE, but might have ancestors there (via the Riggs line)
- FL - DONE, but maybe will visit Orlando area where a high school classmate and a cousin both live, still want to take the ferry at Fort Matanzas, and, re-attempt to visit a couple of places on the Gulf Coast: Sarasota (downtown), Pine Island and the Naples Botanical Gardens
- GA - DONE
- HI - DONE
- ID - DONE, but would like to drive from Boise to Moscow to cover that part of the state to yet drive through
- IL - DONE, but Chicago has some tourist-type places yet to visit
- IN - DONE, maybe Searls family history visit to Brown county (south of Indianapolis) and even Fountain county (just west of Danville Illinois)
- IA - Searls family history research in the counties of Plymouth and Woodbury, would go through here on the way to Fairbanks, Alaska in 2025
- KS - DONE, but currently live here
- KY - DONE, but maybe because, with recent family history discoveries of ancestral families in Missouri and Illinois that came from Kentucky
- LA - DONE, but have some cousins in New Orleans
- ME - Fall 2024 revisit Acadia National Park to photograph the park sign and just see the park again (was there in 1986), also visit the area around Eastport-Lubec and nearby International Park as well as the St. Croix Islands NP
- MD - DONE
- MA - Visit Blackstone River Valley NP, visit Martha's Vineyard. Also, do family history research plus I know many fellow Toastmasters in Boston. And, a good friend lives in this state.
- MI - DONE, but would like to determine what (and where) scenic things can be seen in Pictured Rocks National Park and maybe someday ferry to Isle Royale National Park
- MN - DONE
- MS - DONE
- MO - DONE, but I live too close to KCMO to avoid it
- MT - June 2024 to visit two new parks -- Grant-Kohrs and Bighorn Canyon plus maybe try a fourth attempt someday to Glacier National Park to drive the Going-to-the-Sun Road and even a third attempt at Big Hole NP. MT does have gorgeous scenery.
- NE - DONE
- NV - DONE
- NH - DONE
- NJ - Visit Morristown NP, Gateway, Great Egg Harbor -- planned for Sep.2024, plus, need to spend a night at a third hotel in the state
- NM - DONE, but I loved the town of Albuquerque and the surrounding area when I spent four days there in 2004
- NY - Many many places yet to revisit (from the 2015 trip) in this state. Also, need to visit White Plains area (family history research) which is set for fall 2024. A visit to the New York Historical Society (77th St and Central Park West) might be a good idea too.
- NC - DONE
- ND - Visit the International Peace Garden. Would like to drive from Bowman to Rapid City, South Dakota to cover a part of those states I have yet to drive through, plus, need to spend a night at a third hotel in the state
- OH - Visit the David Berger NP (planned for Sep.2024), do family research in several towns. Also, one cousin in Columbus.
- OK - DONE
- OR - DONE, and N E V E R want to be in this state again (despite two national parks there I have never visited)
- PA - Likely some hopeful family history discoveries brings me back here to check out something
- RI - DONE, but need to spend a night at a third hotel in the state
- SC - DONE, but have recently discovered one ancestor who lived a few years in this state
- SD - DONE, but would like to drive from Rapid City to Bowman North Dakota to cover a part of those states I have yet to drive through
- TN - DOne, but maybe more family history research in Memphis plus there are several other counties (i.e. Grundy) where ancestors lived before moving to Shelby county, PLUS, would be nice to find the Woody Cemetery property owners at home
- TX - Brother lives in this state as does a friend, also, would like to drive from Amarillo through Lubbock and on to San Angelo to cover a big chunck on the state I have yet to drive through
- UT - DONE though some good friends live in Salt Lake City area
- VT - Want to drive entirely around Lake Champlain, also, maybe some family history research in Windham county along with some other counties where ancestors lived
- VA - Would like to research the Melvin ancestry in Clarke county (his obituary says he was "of here"). Also, several cousins live in this state
- WA - DONE, but a good friend lives in Seattle and there are some yet-to-visit national parks in the north central part of the state: Lake Chelan, Lake Roosevelt, Ross Lake
- WV - Need to research in Jefferson county since it is the most likely place where the parents of Thomas Melvin lived in the early 1800's.
- WI - DONE, but would like to maybe re-attempt (it was pouring rain years ago when there) to visit the House of the Rocks and Taliesman near the town of Spring Green
- WY - Bighorn Canyon NP in the north central part of the state (JUne 2024 trip)
- AB - REALLY, REALLY, REALLY want to see Lake Louise and Lake Moraine -- Lake Louise set for June 2024
- BC - Love Vancouver and Butchart Gardens plus much more north along the coast to see on Vancouver Island all the way to Port Hardy, several hours for two ferry rides are needed
- LB - Newfoundland/Labrador is worth one visit someday but it is a big undertaking since it takes a day each way just to ferry from Nova Scotia, might be easier to fly to it via Toronto
- MB - DONE, although it would have been nice to get a sunrise or sunset photo over either Lake Manitoba or Lake Winnepeg
- NB - New Brunswick will be re-visited in fall 2024
- NS - Nova Scotia will be re-visited in fall 2024
- NW - The Northwest Territory towns of Hay River and Yellowknife might be worth a visit if I someday drive to Fairbanks, Alaska
- ON - DONE, since visited Toronto, Ottawa and Thunder Bay
- PE - DONE, since Prince Edward Island was unimpressive, so likely done here although I did entirely miss the western half of the province
- QC - DONE, since visited Montreal and Quebec city and some towns south of them, plus, drove the entire coastline so unknown if will return here -- do not like feeling ostricized with the French language everywhere
- SK - Wanuskewin in Saskatoon in Saskatchwean is worth a visit -- June 2024 trip
- YK - Yukon town of Whitehorse might be worth a visit if I someday drive to Fairbanks, Alaska. Plus, from that town, can drive into Skagway, Alaska to see the Klondike National Park site there